Guild Trousers Three Wire and German Leather
￼THE GIANT AMONGST ZUNFT FABRICS
German leather is probably the best deceptive packaging of all fabrics: strong and solid like leather and yet “only” made from cotton.
In fact 100% cotton. German leather was really born out of necessity: during industrialisation the English developed its predecessor fabric, English leather, to protect workers at blast furnaces from flying sparks (and as an added bonus to save on the signifi cantly more expensive calf leather aprons). Workers gave their aprons a last polish by rubbing on moist clay. The Germans went one step further and developed
the leather replacement further. Out of this emerged a particularly solid fabric with unusually strong warp yarns and a high density of weft yarns – German leather was born. Its smooth slightly shiny outside
and napped inside is characteristic of it. German leather is almost indestructible and really heavy with a whole 600 grams per square metre. An absolute giant. Only the washing machine makes it smaller: due to the type of weave German leather shrinks in width by about
CORDUROY WHICH LASTS FOREVER
The three yarn warp – in the 18th century corduroy was the fabric of the beautiful and rich. Only kings and well-to-do aristocrats could afford luxurious corduroy (“cord du roi“), which back then was usually weaved from pure silk. The French agricultural workers and English miners needed something robust and rough instead of just a beautiful appearance. Therefore they developed robust corduroy on their weaving stools, with triple twisted warp yarns, the three yarn warp, as tear-proof as a chain. Incredibly pile-resistant with up to 100weft yarns per centimetre. The fi rst ever “protective clothing“ was invented with this. Trousers made from this robust corduroy provide the wearer with safety and it appears a portion of courage: they were worn by the workers who stormed the Bastille in Paris, the sailors who were at the Battle
of Trafalgar and the „King of the Mountains“ Luis Trenker, when he conquered the summits. All of these achieved their goals successfully. Therefore it is no surprise that the success of three yarn corduroy
has continued until today. The travelling journeymen only venture on the road in this corduroy. As which other fabric could survive
three years and a day of pure adventure?
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